Sunday, September 1, 2013

Soapy Labor of Love

Contrary to what the Labor Day holiday is supposed to signify, I worked like a soaping dog cooking up three new batches for the fall show. The first batch was a first on a few levels...I caved to my daughter's laments about fragrance oils. I bought a sampler pack from Brambleberry when I first started soaping and really like the vanilla and milk and honey scents. I also bought Anne Marie Faiola's book "Soap Craft ng," which is wonderful, so Livy and I whipped up one of her recipes, Oatmeal Layers, a  homie
sweet-I could- take- a- bite- out -of -you- soap for the fall.

 I've only used fragrance oils once, on my second batch of soap ever, Oatmeal, Milk, and Honey, and I don't recall it doing anything funny. It came out really nice...a nice beige-y tan color. Since then, I've been using essential oils like crazy, but even with skilled blending techniques, you just can't get certain scents that make people go nuts, and I really think people are a touch more motivated more by scent than fancy swirls. I see when customers sniff among a dozen soaps--it's clearly the scent that sways followed by design. As a soap maker, I love design because I know the technical finesse that goes into balancing temperature, oils, scent, and technique--when it goes right, I'm deliriously proud and it's an instant favorite. I followed Anne Marie's recipe to the tee, and so interesting  how those vanilla  fragrance oils discolor over time. In this one, I used a vanilla, milk and honey blend on the bottom, and an almond on top. It's been two days since I made it and already the bottom layer is turning dark. The actual soap featured in the book has a dark brown bottom layer. I didn't have the exact quantity called for, but hoping the final cured soap looks as delicious as Anne Marie's, but probably not, since I forgot the honey-oops. Here it is after day 2

I love this book. I bought the handy spiral-bound version--because the beautiful pictures make it coffee table worthy and I can take notes. I've developed some very nice recipes using Soap Calc, but  agonized that certain thicker recipes were costing me a fortune because I used high percentages of shea butter or cocoa butter to get them that way. After studying her recipes, I've discovered I can make a perfectly glorious thick-high quality batter without the high expense. Awesome book.

My second batch, called Autumn Wreath, is not exactly as envisioned, but pretty darned close. I bought a new liquid pigment, the liquid version of the matte Americana red oxide I'm used to. Well, the liquid stuff, when added to white soap, goes pinky pastel and not the vibrant red you get with the powdered oxide. Lesson learned, but I still think it's beautiful. I used a blend of essential oils: cedar wood, fir needle, rosemary, and clove. Smells like a mid-autumn trail run through the pines. Love it!

My third batch, a modified mantra hanger swirl, is still nestled in it's mold. I uncovered it for a quick minute to get a picture. This one uses three naturally colored clays--Brazilian red, Fuller's clay, and sea clay. I think the hangar part went O.K., but you never know. I'm really drawn to masculine hippy-dippy scents, so this one is lavendin, basil, and patchouli.

6 comments:

  1. All three sound wonderful! I have not tried OMH fragrance, but I am sure it smells wonderful because it is very popular. I also have not tried a lot of essential oils. Your e.o. combinations for your autumn wreath and modified mantra sound really nice and fresh. I'm very curious about patchouli and the woodsy smells.

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    Replies
    1. My modified mantra was an ashy disaster. Not sure what happened-it might be that I mixed my clays with water, but didn't subtract the amount from water/lye mixture. That's my theory. I've made many clay soaps, but I always mix in oil or just add it in at trace. I abhor ash and routinely CPOP my soaps to avoid it. This time though, I just insulated with a few towels. BTW--I think patchouli is the bomb--such a great blending base oil to anchor down those fleeting top notes. When done right, no one ever knows patchouli's in the blend. Aroma Web has some great blending articles if you're interested.

      Delete
    2. My modified mantra was an ashy disaster. Not sure what happened-it might be that I mixed my clays with water, but didn't subtract the amount from water/lye mixture. That's my theory. I've made many clay soaps, but I always mix in oil or just add it in at trace. I abhor ash and routinely CPOP my soaps to avoid it. This time though, I just insulated with a few towels. BTW--I think patchouli is the bomb--such a great blending base oil to anchor down those fleeting top notes. When done right, no one ever knows patchouli's in the blend. Aroma Web has some great blending articles if you're interested.

      Delete
    3. My modified mantra was an ashy disaster. Not sure what happened-it might be that I mixed my clays with water, but didn't subtract the amount from water/lye mixture. That's my theory. I've made many clay soaps, but I always mix in oil or just add it in at trace. I abhor ash and routinely CPOP my soaps to avoid it. This time though, I just insulated with a few towels. BTW--I think patchouli is the bomb--such a great blending base oil to anchor down those fleeting top notes. When done right, no one ever knows patchouli's in the blend. Aroma Web has some great blending articles if you're interested.

      Delete
  2. All three soaps look lovely! I love BB's OMH FO. Those iridescent swirls on Autumn Wreath are so pretty, and the EO blend in the mantra swirl sounds fantastic. I haven't bought the Soap Crafting book yet, but it's on my list. Sorry to hear that your mantra swirl turned out ashy. Have you tried using steam to get rid of the ash? That usually works pretty well for me. Just hold the bar over simmering water (use a paper towel - it gets slippery!) or a tea kettle or whatever for a few seconds until it gets wet and the ash is gone. Then let it dry. Hopefully that will help!

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  3. Thanks Jenny, but yes, I've tried those methods, and they work, but the only thing that's going to get the ash off bad boy is a long bath...and that might be risky...

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